Thursday Commentary
2:28 pm
Fri February 17, 2012

The Offal Truth

"'Plato observed a long while ago that those stomachs are not the best that reject all sorts of food,'" both a quote from Voltaire's Candide and a wise observation. Nan Graham's, however, has been rejecting food of a certain sort from a young age, when cow's tongue was a regular feature on her dinner table. From liver to haggis, she examines how offal cuisine can be.